BUILDING AN EARLY COMBINE
11/12/2011
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BUILDING AN EARLY COMBINE
Modeling tips on how to build an old-time passenger coach with a lot of interesting features.
This clinic describes the construction of a freelance model inspired by a wooden Combination Coach originally built in 1855 by the Cumberland Valley Railroad as it might have been built in 1885.  It will explain how the car was built mass-production style with jigs and fixtures.
 
Coach and parts will be displayed.
        
        
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BUILDING AN EARLY COMBINE
Modeling tips on how to build an old-time passenger coach with a lot of interesting features.
This clinic describes the construction of a freelance model inspired by a wooden Combination Coach originally built in 1855 by the Cumberland Valley Railroad as it might have been built in 1885.  It will explain how the car was built mass-production style with jigs and fixtures.
 
Coach and parts will be displayed.
        
        
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WORLD’S FIRST AUTOTRAIN
If you consider that the horse in 1855 was regarded as transportation much as the automobile is today, that would make this the first “auto-train” in use.  Back then towns were built about twenty miles apart, a good day’s ride by horseback. A salesman or executive with the use of this car could travel a hundred miles or more and still have access to his favorite mode of transportation.
This car when first built had no air breaks and used link and pin couplers.
Knuckle couplers and airbrakes would become standard only after the civil war.
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Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania
This narrow-gauge car now located in Pennsylvania was built at the Cumberland Valley Railroad shops in 1855. It is the oldest passenger car preserved in the United States. 
 
Several unconfirmed reports indicate that this car played a role in the Civil War in shuttling troops to the front from the South.  Construction was rather primitive compared to the way cars were built later.
I Saw this car while on vacation and just had to have something like it.
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A FUN MODEL TO BUILD
This freelance model generally follows the outline of the  Cumberland Valley car only with a bit of imagineering like as if had been built later, say in 1885, with a clerestory roof, modern couplers, air brakes, and  as standard gauge. 
   
I make no pretence as to making an exact replica of the original car.  This is simply a freelance model inspired  by the prototype. Okay, so it is a bit of a stretch but stranger cars have been built. 
      
      
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CAR BUILT IN SECTIONS
  
•   The end platforms
•   Roof (and ends)
•   The Clerestory windows
•   Various Doors
•   The sides
•   Car ends
Many parts of this car was built using jigs and fixtures, not all of which are shown here.
Some hardware was obtained directly from Labelle Woodworking and other venders. 
 
 
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CONSTRUCTION OF PLATFORM
      
The platform assembly includes the truck bolster, platform, steps, handrails and couplers.
   
Early coaches had little in the way of a center sill unlike cars built at a later date.
The floor was just that, a floor and it depended heavily on heavy timbers
      and truss rods for support.
There were also surprisingly wide variations in the overall size of cars.
We will start by making the end platform and bolster assembly. 
      
        
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Doing a bit of Testing
  
Sometimes, when scratch building a car, it can be helpful to throw something together to determine how all the parts will fit. This assembly was used to develop the car ends.
     
Very little  time was spent on cutting or fitting accurately.  The object is simply to have a way to visually see how parts fit and to insure dimensions are reasonable.  Discovering mistakes here will saves a lot of time later.
     
Look for instance at the way the end wall extends below the platform.  See how the platform actually butts against the wall; the wall does NOT butt against the floor.
This also helps to determine any jigs or fixture might be useful in the assembly.
     
    
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A SIMPLE HOLDING FIXTURE
     
This is a simple fixture used to hold the bolster and couplers in place while gluing.
     
Lubricating the fixture with a THIN layer of petroleum jelly will help prevent glued parts from sticking.
       
I am a firm believer in the use of jigs and fixtures. They may add a few extra minutes to a project but the results are worth it.  Once made a fixture will save time if more than one of something has to be made. The exception of course is that when you use it a year later it might take more time to find it that to remake it new.
      
It will increase accuracy on consistency of construction. There are also some projects that require a “third hand” that a fixture provides
     
The soap or petroleum jelly prevents the glue from sticking to the fixture.  Use sparingly.  Both will prevent paint from sticking to parts or stains will not penetrate evenly.
     
       
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BOLSTER AND COUPLER
   
This holding fixture helps to assemble the end platforms.
•Install (2) long floor beams first. 
•A Dummy sill positions end of beams.  It will be replaced by the actual beam later.
•Install (2) short beams next with the spacers between beams.
•Add the three spacers in the center form the bolster for the truck.
•Install the coupler pocket spacer at top center.
•Drill the hole for the truck “kingpin.” 
•Note the notches which will provide clearance for the wheels.
     
Dimensions are not critical.
   
       
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ADD PLATFORM
   
Lightly sand the top flat
Add the Platform first.
Hold the sill against the platform and beams but do not glue at this time.
Notch the beam to fit the coupler pocket.
  
Note that the spacers were omitted along the right side of the beams.
These will be added later.
     
      
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FORMING THE END SILL
   
Another jig will be used to drill the end beams for railings.
The end sill is notched for coupler.
The sill can be contoured.
    
Another simple jig will be used to drill the end beams for the hand rails.  Notice the raised backstop on this jig.
     
Do not install the hand rails just yet.
     
        
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DRILL HOLES IN SILL
   
Holes are drilled quickly and reliably by using a brass template like this.  It may take a few extra minutes to make, but once made it can be used repeatedly for other cars.  Use a bit of  stock, drill the pattern, then file one side to the desired angle.
  
The two scores on the fixture show the center location of the coupler pocket.
 
The sill and drill guide are held against the base as the holes are drilled.
      
Notch and glue sill to the rest of the assembly. 
  
   
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ADD TRUCK BEARING
   
Use a small piece of brass as a bearing plate for the truck. This provides a metal to metal contact that will allow the truck to swivel freely without friction.
Drill hole for truck for the kingpin (screw) and glue in place.
Glue coupler in place using ‘Walther’s Goo’ or some similar shock-resistant adhesive. 
  
  
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ADD STEPS
      
Steps are added next.
Turn the assembly over and glue the railings in place.  The handrail is simply threaded through the last link of the chain and held in place by a spec of glue.
This completes the platform assembly. 
         
         
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FINISHING PLATFORM ASSEMBLY 
    
Close-up of finished platform ready for assembly later on. 
    
        
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MAKING A PASSENGER CAR ROOF
      
We will now draw our attention to the car roof.
The roof shown here is typical on almost all passenger cars of this era. 
We will make this one from a length of standard roof stripwood cut into (5) separate sections.
(2) Roof ends
Top central section of roof
(2) side roofs panels
      
We will then add the Clerestory window panel and trim pieces.
      
The trickiest part of the construction is the roof ends so we will start there.
      
     
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ANOTHER VIEW OF THE ROOF END
        
This practice roof end is fabricated from a short length Clerestory roofing.
It will be shortened to about half this length once complete.
The extra length makes it much easier to hold and shape.
     
      
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BEGINNING of CONSTRUCTION
(How the roof is constructed)
        
The Clerestory roof is from Northeastern Scale Lumber.
Be careful not to damage the edges while handling this stripwood
        
It is all right if the joints show at this stage as they will be covered by a tissue paper roof.
    
Use the single ply of regular facial tissue paper.
Apply a thick coat of paint on the roof
Lay the paper on the still wet paint and let dry.
Apply a second coat to finish the roofing.
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USE a ROOF TEMPLATE
    
Use templates to shape upper and lower roof sections.  This will give a more correct and consistent contour.
    
The templates we will use on the LaBelle kit are the two shapes to the right.  The pieces to the left are the actual trim pieces designed to be used to form the rounded curve at the very end.
    
Only one template will be needed for all the cars you want to build. Do NOT try to use the trim pieces from the template as they are much harder to use to get a good blend.  Using stripwood is both easier and much cheaper. 
   
Contact Labelle Woodworking directly for template, trucks, steps and handrails.
    
    
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NOTCH THE UPPER LIP
  
Begin by removing the upper lip of roof .
Use the template to determine how far back notch extends.
Later, this section will be cut at or slightly beyond this notch.
 
   
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ROUND LOWER ROOF
       
Round the lower roof corner using the template for the proper contour.
   
Work slowly and use the templates frequently.
    
Work to create a constant arc or thickness across the end and the rest will follow.
       
       
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EXTEND UPPER EDGE
      
This next step is much harder to explain than to actually do.
    
Select stripwood that is no thinner then the edge lip of the upper roof. 
       
Form lower curve using the appropriate template.  Work slowly to obtain a good fit. 
     
The upper edge butts against the upper roof as shown.  The lower end of curve must blend smoothly to the curved roof end.  The lower most edge of blend should meet and run parallel to the roof just above the underside contour.  A slight overlap will allow for easier shaping when sanding end later.
     
Glue in place  making sure there are no gaps and bottom edge of roof and trim are even.
     
Now, Round top of roof to blend with trim making sure width of trim strip is even.
    
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FINISHED ROOF END
     
The main trick in this step is to keep the width of the trim consistent.  Do not try to sand the trim quickly on one side.  It is best to work on both sides of an end at the same time.
    
Work slowly and carefully to gradually shape the roof to the template. Remember, the width of the trim is the key to making a good shape. Once the trim is right the rest will follow naturally.
     
        
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UPPER AND LOWER MIDDLE ROOF
    
These cross-sections show how to cut the roof into (4) pieces.
  
Make a horizontal cut and save the upper center roof section.
Be sure to preserve the lip of the upper roof.
  
Cut the remaining section into three segments.
Cutting the lower roof sections inside the clerestory surface leaves a small shelf
    on which the bottom of the clerestory window panel will rest.
      
The outer sections are the lower side roof sections.
The center section will be discarded.
      
    
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JOINING the ROOF SECTIONS
   
A multi-purpose fixture will be used to join the roof segments.
   
Now we are ready to join the roof sections together.
The holding fixture on the left is used to align and hold the various sections in place while the glue dries.
      
The two outer rails will help align the lower roofs for gluing.  The two rails on the opposite side are for the upper roof.
     
The center portion of this fixture is used to assemble the clerestory windows will be seen later.
    
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GLUE LOWER ROOF SECTIONS
   
Working one side at a time, glue a lower roof section to an end.  The fixture will hold the lower edge in proper alignment but care must be taken to get the proper rotation for the two sections to line up.
     
       
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GLUE UPPER ROOF SECTION
   
Likewise, the upper roof section can be glued.
The outer rails hold the sections in line horizontally.
The inner rails raise and hold the curved sections in line vertically
     well clear of the fixture.
    
     
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BUILDING the CAR SIDES
    
This sample passenger car side will be built in (2) layers using stripwood shapes.  A simple fixture will make it easy to hold parts in place during assembly. It will also insure uniform size of sides.
   
     
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CONSTRUCTION SCHEMATIC
    
This schematic shows the layered construction of the car side.
    
Begin Base layer by trimming the COACH SIDING* as shown.  Add the window area using various sizes of stripwood.  This layer forms the inner window sashes shown in green.
       
Overlay the base layer with Scribed siding (shown in yellow), the fascia (gold), and the WINDOW MOLDING* shown in tan.
      
*All Northeastern  Scale Lumber used in this project  can be obtained at Walthers’
     
       
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INSIDE OF CAR WALL 
    
This view shows base layer or inside of the cars wall.
The parts around windows are cut from stripwood lie flat in the holding fixture.
This generic fixture can be used for any car side of this type.
    
     
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SIDE AFTER ASSEMBLY
   
The only parts of the base layer that are visible are the window frames and the chair rail.
     
All the parts in line with the windows are trimmed to the same length.
     
This same holding fixture was used on all of the car sides in the Drover Combine and will be used for other cars.
     
      
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WINDOWS AND DOORS 
   
Think, when making doors and windows, in terms of mass production.
  
Making doors, windows  and other parts in batches is Faster and are More Accurate.
Pick best for use where details show. 
Use extras for other projects or leave lying around in “scrap piles”.
  
  
  
  
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Clerestory Windows 
   
This is only one of several other holding fixtures is used to build the clerestories.
It happens to be part of the fixture for holding the roof sections together for gluing.
   
Window strips can be made any length for various cars.
Note the marks used to help space the windows.
     
     
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INSTALLING WINDOWS 
     
The BEFORE view on the left shows clerestory area before panels are installed.  The Right-hand view shows the Panels installed with trim added.
   
Remember to test fit the clerestory panel before gluing.  Set the roof to one side for now.   
    
    
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Label Woodworking Trucks
   
Label has some nice looking trucks to go with an early passenger coach.
     
Unfortunately some of the trucks LaBelle shipped had intermittent shorts.  Note how close the insulated wheel rim is to the side frame. Luckily it is not too difficult to re-heat the solder and/or gently bend the side frame ever so slightly.
     
Use cardstock shim for spacing.
      
     
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THE SIDE HANDRAILS
     
These side rails were assembled from brass wire.
Drill holder first and then install vertical stanchions first. Hold against a flat surface and solder horizontal railings. File to round and shape.
    
Use the holder as a fixture to drill holes on the model.
Remove railings from holder and install on model.
    
       
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PLATFORM INSTALLED
    
Once the sides have been completed they can be assembled much like a common box car.
  
This view shows the completed car.  The sides have been completed and the platform assembly mounted on car body.  This is the time to weigh the car including the trucks, couplers and roof and add weights as required.
   
      
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END OF COACH SECTION
  
Side view of coach before painting.
 
Roofing will be made from a single ply of tissue paper.  Lay a heavy coat of paint and cover with tissue.  Allow to dry and add another layer of paint.  File the edges of the roof to trim the tissue and touch up the edges with yet more paint.
  
     
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COMBINE AFTER A BIT OF PAINT 
    
This is the result to this point.  Car has been weighted to five ounces and ready for test runs.  Details will be added later.
  
Travel in this era was expensive and for only those who could afford it.  Etched glass and gilding figured prominently in the cost of building a new car for those who were accustomed to luxury.  Red, Green and gold were expensive signs of ambiance unlike the much cheaper Tuscan red paint made from milk and iron rust found on common box cars.
   
The roof vents were made from brads, turned to size and cut to length More details will be added later.
   
The fun part of building freelance.
    
    
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For More Information…
 
Labelle Woodworking        https://www.labellemodels.com/
LaBelle Woodworking Company is one of the oldest companies
still offering wooden model railroad kits.
 
Northeastern Scale Lumber http://www.northeasternscalelumber.com/  
COMPLETE SCALE HARDWOODS FOR Model Railroaders
 
Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania   http://www.rrmuseumpa.org/
more than 100 historic locomotives and railroad cars  on display.
 
Walthers.com http://www.walthers.com/
Largest single supplier for  model railroading.
 
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THE END
This presentation has been brought to you by the North River Railway
Bob Van Cleef
46 Broadway
Coventry,  CT  06238
http://www.northriverrailway.net
   
This Power Point presentation is available at:
 http://www.northriverrailway.net/DRVR_COMBINE.pps
   
This presentation is available as a Portable Document File at:
 http://www.northriverrailway.net/DRVR_COMBINE.pdf
 
This presentation is available as a Web page file at:
 http://www.northriverrailway.net/DRVR_COMBINE.htm
    
        
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