A FLAT CAR YOU CAN USE

A FLAT CAR HEAVY ENOUGH TO USE

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Flat cars may seem to be easily modeled but are rarely seen on any model railroad, especially one that is not carrying a load. Why? Because it is hard to find and build one that is heavy enough to stay on the tracks.

Personally, I like a car without a load. The problem is that there is no place to add any kind of weight. Even die-cast white-metal cars are under weight unless carrying a load. Using a low-melting point lead-based metal helps but it is still difficult to bring a car up to weight and it is expensive too. I have tried several ways over the years and nothing that worked that well until now

The solution is simple. Make the car body from brass instead of wood. This, of course makes it harder to detail the underside of a car (some detail could be added) but who cares about what cannot be seen? To say the underside of this car lacks detail is an understatement but then again the only time it would show is if the car derails and flips over.

To say the underside of this car lacks detail is an understatement but then again the only time it would show is if the car derails and flips over

Bass stack is a relatively inepensive and efficient way to add weight to a car.

The core of this 42-foot car is made from one pieces of 1-1/4 x 1/8 of cold rolled brass cut to 3-1/4 inches long, and another cut to 1-1/2 inches. The total weight of the pieces when glued together is less than three ounces. The trucks, couplers and other parts will bring the weight to just over the recommended weight of 3-1/2 ounces with plenty of room to spare.

See BETTER OPERATION for more information on weighting cars for operation.

Build car body but do not glue brass weights yet. The sides are 10” x 22” scale stripwood. The subfloor is regular HO car floorboard cut down to 1-1/4 to match the width of the weights. Note that grab irons and other hardware hold better with the extra thickness. The belly is formed, then the end sills (see below) and bolsters can be built up and added next.

See BETTER OPERATION on how to build up truck Bolsters

This view shows the holes for stirrups and the notch for the draft gear. Also note the 12 degree angle bevel on the poling pockets

Here are a few approximate dimensions:

Width over sides	9’ 0”
Length over sills	42’ 0”
Side height at end	16”
Side height at belly	28”
Transition from end	7’ 6”
	17’ 0 “

Here is one way to drill the stake pocket positions accurately. In this case, the pocket selected requires two #71 holes side by side. First, make a jig to drill just a single pair of holes side by side. This may take a few tries to get it right but in the end, the time this takes will yield great dividends on the overall results. This jig is the vertical piece in the bottom center of picture.

A second piece is glued at right angles to form a good surface that can be held against and slide across the fixture

The actual template is composed of a base, a “ruler” strip marked for each stake pocket location, a slide at the bottom to keep the drilling jig level, and a lip or overhang against which the jig is pressed to keep it square.

The drilling template (center of picture) has its own overhang to keep it properly aligned as the holes are drilled. I start by drilling hole a one end and insert a pin to keep it in place. Then I add a hole at the other end.

The rest of the holes are drilled without any worry about the template moving around.

The decking is applied next and a notch can be filed at each pocket location. I use paint as a glue when installing the pockets.

These are a few more of the aids used to drill holes for stake pockets, grab irons and stirrups. Making jigs like these does not take much time but can dramatically improve the results of fine work. The drill size should be marked to insure the holes are not enlarged by using the wrong one.

End sills begin with a length of 6 x 18 stripwood. This jig insures the holes are properly spaced both from each other and from the edge of sill. The holes are placed such that Multiple sills can be formed from a single piece of stripwood.

Poling pockets will be formed by a square piece of cardstock and a 1/8” length of 3/16” telescopic tubing. Handling pieces this small is simplified by using a mandrel to hold them in place while filing to length and removing any burrs and sharp edges. Note that the smallest diameter that fits inside the part also protrudes 1/8” to make it easier to recognize when the pieces are the right length.

A leather punch (Available from Tandy Leather Company) is used to form the pocket base. Use a white index card or some similar card stock. Excess material is cut later as car is formed.

The pocket is assembled from its component parts. Trim and glue the plate first, then press the pocket in place. You can also drill for the grab irons and rough the outline for the draft gear.

Pockets, especially on old-time cars, come in a wide range of sizes.

Later, the pocket is filed to an angle of about twelve degrees to complete the formation of the pocket. Do not worry about the hollow appearance of the pocket at this time as it can be filled with paint later. Let capillary action fill the bottom to the correct level and roundness.