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 Construction begins with a simple template,
especially where several controllers may be required. This template
will serve two functions. First,
it will standardize the hole or cutout and thus make installation,
maintenance and replacement easier.
Second, it will also be used to standardize the size of the
controls made as we will see later.
Dimensions can vary according to the user so
it is up to you, the reader, to experiment a bit and determine the size
that suits you best. Once you
determine a size you should use it for all controls created. CAUTION: Please read through this carefully
before to determine dimensions required
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 The body of the control it made from 3/16”
thick lattice and mass-produced in a strip. Cut the lattice for the body sides
and use simple stripwood for the top and bottom. Use a spacer to keep the side just
far enough apart for the control
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Add the LOW spacers
at the back of the control.
These will position the switches to be either flush with the
front cover, slightly protruding, or countersunk.
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The control body can be “test fit” into the template to test for
fit. The plug in the center represents the control that will eventually
be installed in the center later. Note that there should be some “play”
between the three parts to allow for some minor adjustments and interchangeability
in parts later on.
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The HIGH spacers are
now added. These also serve two
functions. First, when the perf
board holding the switches is in place, they will allow a “floating”
action. This prevents binding of
the switch buttons when everything is in place. they also hold everything in place
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This glass-filled epoxy board can be found
under a number of different names such as keyboard, plugboard and
perfboard.
It is the foundation of any electrical
project. This board is made by
Vector Electronics with .042 holes spaced on a .100 x 100 grid. Most components can be readily
mounted on this spacing.
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These switches come in two parts. The switch itself (on right) measures
about 9 x 9 millimeters and is perfect for stall motors. Do not try to use it with
twin-coil machines as it will not handle the current. The cap (on the left) comes in a
variety of colors including green, blue, white, red and black.
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Notice the “slop” between the
perf-board and the high spacers.
This floating action is intentional and will keep the buttons from
binding against the front cover plate when installed
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The pushbuttons are installed
in the body
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The “keepers” are installed next. Inspect all joints at this point and
give any glue used time to set up before going further so that the
assembly will not fall apart if the buttons are pressed to hard.
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 The faceplate is cut to size next. The hole in the center should be
just large enough for pushbutton assembly. Note the counter-sunk holes in the
corners. Use flathead screws to
prevent the snagging of anyone passing by.
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I used another small template
to drill the four screw holes that will keep the completed pushbutton
assembly in place. This insures
perfectly even spaced holes where you want them. Just make sure you lay the plate flat
against a spare flat piece of wood to avoid splintering the holes.
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The control panel schematic
lines are thin pieces of stripwood painted white and then glued in
place. Round the ends to prevent
snagging.
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This is how the final product
will appear.
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