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Most will agree from the start
The best way to have the smooth operation of a
model railroad
Is to run trains
Constant operation
Will
provide a rubbing action
Which
keeps the railhead polished
And therefore
provide good contact
between
the tracks and the wheels of a locomotive
Indeed, many constantly running store displays have no problems
Nor the mainline of many club layouts
In an idealistic world, tracks should never
require cleaning
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Things happen, however, in the real world.
Scenery projects requiring plaster can instantly
destroy any operation at all.
Long
times between running trains
or a harsh environment can also conspire to rust, corrode and
degrade both tracks and wheels thereby destroying the critical contact
further, attempting to operate over dirty track
combined with modern transistor or DCC circuitry can further accelerate this
destruction and actually cause physical harm to both wheels and rails
So, what can be done?
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Here are some of the tools used on the North
River First is a caddy to carry around track cleaning tools
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Please
Understand
No
one method for track cleaning is best for all situations
It
is an intuitive art
Using an abrasive block on perfectly clean track can do more harm
than good
While trying to clean extremely dirty track with only a track
cleaning car
Can allow a bad poor operation to further disintegrate
Variation in environment, scenic materials used in railroad, recent
construction-related activities
All conspire to ruin smooth operation in several ways
I can only throw out several suggestions as to what can be done
Leave it to you, the reader to experiment
See what works best for you and your particular situation.
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Sandpaper was once used
for track cleaning back in the stone age when Model Railroading was in its
infancy. This might have had its use
when the O-Scale tracks were heavier and there was no other product
available but it is obsolete today, especially I the smaller scales. Likewise, do not use files. The only time a file should
be used is after soldering or some other process as tracks are laid
and there may be a build-up of unwanted material on the railhead. So not use files
for cleaning.
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Track cleaners after 20-30 years of use
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Use of an
abrasive track cleaner should be done sparingly
I use it mostly where
I have painted the rails or done scenery which covers the rails
Over enthusiastic or
repeated use of abrasives can eventually wear down the railhead.
Also, always use
extreme caution around switches
And work from the frog
toward the points to damaging
delicate points
another consideration is the using an abrasive on the railheads
tends to flatten the rail head
while
the wheel treads are tapered.
This means the wheel
tends to make contact
between the sharp
inside corner of railhead
and radius
between the tread and flange of the wheel
not squarely on the tread as designed.
Yet another consideration is the rail used to begin with.
I have seen cheap track
where the railhead is actually cupped and prone to collect dirt.
Only slightly better is
track where the cross-section of rails are completely flat on top with
sharp corners
The cross-section of a
rail should have radius at the edges
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First
is the old stand-by, the abrasive track cleaner
This is usually a composite
block
Consisting of a
rubber-like base
Embedded with bits of
brass or some metallic fibers
It is these bits of metal
that can scrape paint,
glue, oxidation, corrosion
Or other non-conductive
debris from the surface of the rail
Take a look at your cleaner and if it does not have these bits of
metal
Consider using
something else as cleaning will be a lot harder
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A 1” x 1” x 6” block of balsa to be extremely
useful for track cleaning
I use
it when trains have been idle for an extensive period
And before any trains are run
Fibrous
cellulite structure abrasive Polishes, not scratches like abrasives
Porosity
holds cleaning solutions or absorbs wet films left by cleaning solutions
Less
likely to damage delicate Trackwork like points of turnouts
Easy to clean
Quick pass over sandpaper or even a cement floor cleans block
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The main disadvantage of using balsa
alone is that it will not remove Paint, corrosion, Pitting in rails or dirt
trapped in microscopic scratches
Or imperfections in railhead.
Using both
balsa and cleaning solutions is the best approach for general cleaning

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Cleaning solutions can help
They
are only way to draw dirt out from imperfections in rail head
And especially from wheels of an engine
These, when new, are usually smooth and polished
In time can be scratched by abrasive cleaners
Or pitted due to arcing when an engine runs over a dirty piece of
track
Such arcs burn tiny holes in both wheels and railhead that over time
can collect dirt
The argument FOR using cleaning solutions
Is to
draw out this dirt and/or leave a slightly conductive coating on rails to
improve contact.
This
can dramatically improve operation
The argument AGAINST using cleaning solutions
Is
that the film left behind can attract dirt and dust and actually degrade
the very electrical contact
They
are designed to improve
another aspect is that this dirt can collect on
wheels to the point of lifting the tread far enough
that
the flange rides up on frogs or other parts of a switch and cause
derailments
this
must be checked and cleaned periodically if the rails are left “wet”
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I use a citronella scented outdoor lamp oil (the
main ingredient is kerosene) because it is cheap, I happen to have some
lying around, and it is a form that is convenient to store. Actually, almost any kerosene product
including paint thinner could be used
Some track cleaning solutions contain mostly coal
oil
And is designed to be used with track cleaning cars.
A
small reservoir is filled and the solution is allowed to drip on a cleaning
pad
This does a good jog and dissolves dirt and grease and leaves a film
on the tracks The trouble is
that this type of cleaner is often non-conductive should be removed after
use
The Film will tend to collect dust
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Kerosene and soap (my favorite and most used method)
Literally washes rail AND wheels
Soap chemically reacts with grease and dirt
Kerosene lifts dirt particles from rails
Dissolves dirt caked on to wheels
Method 1
Soak (1) side of balsa with kerosene and scrub top of rails
Rub a bar of regular hand soap
for ˝ inch every foot or so along yard track
Run train back and forth across section (note, rails should turn
black with dirt
Dry rail with 2nd side of balsa and run train across
section of track
Repeat until train no longer blackens rails
Run train to and from another part of railroad
Dirt will tend to be drawn from tracks and collect on wheels of
train
Repeat above until train runs smoothly
Mehod 2
Use small brush
Paint soap bar with keosine
Paint rails
Run train until rails turn black
Wipe dry with balsa
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Use a contact cleaner
Several cleaners specific to model railroad and otherwise
All promote electrical contact
Leave film
Can be used instead of or in conjuction
with kerosine
Unlike
kerosene, Use VERY sparingly
Paint
only an inch or two of rails with contact cleaner
Run train back and forth across painted area
Run to another part of the railroad and back
The idea here is to create a thin film of cleaner to the mainline
Thick enough to increase the contact between the wheels and railhead
An
alternate way is to paint an inch of rail every five feet or so
Before an operationg session or on a
specific trouble spot
But not so thick as to attract dust
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This is both a lubricant and electrically
conductive coating
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These are dirivitives
of radio products and are meant to leave a
conductive film for the specific purpose of improving electrical
contact
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This is an environmentally friendly way to remove
grease and films left by other cleaning products
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I have always looked a
track cleaning cars more as preventative maintenance
To use, track must be
clean enough to run engine
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One of my earliest was
the Ulrich cleaner
Small tank dripped
on pad
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Next was a cow/calf
unit
Cow was simply about
three pounds of lead on four tracks feeding power to engine
Idea was to force
contact against rails so train could be run
Yes, another little
nugget
Wire a .47 mfd cap and 150 ohm resisters in series across brushes
of the motor of ALL engines to reduce arcing
Especially
when using DCC or conventional transistor throttles
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A car to press a bright-boy
abrader against rails. This was not a success
But there are many examples of a spring-loaded piece of Masonite
(rough side against the rails)
These will do much to keep most of the mainline clean
But there will always
be areas that are missed
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Centerline came up with an effective cleaner
A
heavy roller is pushed along tracks in a frame
Rolling action reduces risk of damage to delicate switch points
Gravity insures it will reach all spots
Interchangeable pads make it easy to clean pads
Only down side is that there IS friction that makes it hard to push
in a train
One or two cars fine, long trains, no.
See what can be done with this basic chases and
more details at:
http://www.northriverrailway.net/CleaningCars.htm
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One of several models available
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This flexible test track can work with a wide
range of locomotives with different wheelbase length and wheel arrangments. It
works equally well from deisels to stream
engines. Note the coupler to keep
the engine in place.
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Some sort
of “run-in” track best for cleaning wheels of engines
Less
strain on running gear
Run
engine as long as required to clean Lubricants and any loose debris falls
down and away
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Wire brushes require extreme caution
Will
run an engine where wheels are to far gone to run any other way
Avoid if at all possible because wires
break loose and fall into running gear
Awkward
Difficult to get into corners
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Once track clean and good operation restored
Keep it that way
Avoid creating dust
No
power tools, especially sanding
If you
must create dust, vacuum room and keep clean after
Use
clean bag for each project
If
you can, keep vacuum on and the nozzle close to dust source as you work
Cover cement floors.
This can be done by sealing and painting
the floor, using a “poured” floor, or rugs.
While
rugs can be a source of contamination they almost always are better than
bare cement
And can be vacuumed to reduce dust.
Use of air filter extreme but every bit helps
No smoking, incense etc
Use minimal oil to lubricate engines and
equipment
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Model Railroading is fun in Connecticut.
Bob Van Cleef, MMR
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